We take another overnight in Aqaba before setting off for Petra. The site is at over 800m above sea level, and the route there climbs over 1600m, which is well over the altitude it's sensible to reach straight after diving.

The Jag makes short work of the mountains, and I guide the party around as much of Petra as possible in the relatively short time available. No climbing up to the Monastery, but we see most of the rest of the site.

We're off again almost immediately, heading north before looking for a route over the mountains toward the Dead Sea. The pass, once we find it, is spectacular as it leads down to reveal views of the Dead Sea. We follow the road until we stumble across a scattering of cars parked by the armco.

The sea is accessible enough from here, and more importantly there's a freshwater stream running into it so you can wash the salt off. Not all of us jump in.

The evening sees us getting lost in Madaba. It's conveniently placed for my flight out tomorrow, and less terrible than Amman. It takes a little rough navigation through the back streets of the city, but we eventually find our way to the Madaba Inn Hotel, which is switched off for the winter.

The following day we get up early to see the sights, before I get dropped off at the building site which used to be Amman's airport. The place is heaving, but they have a system where you slip someone a twenty and he propels you past the queues. The Royal Jordanian flight is pretty comfortable.

Meanwhile, the rest of the party continues north. After a stop in Jerash, they reach the Syrian border intending to see Damascus and Palmyra. It doesn't quite go to plan.

One of the party leaves Jordan successfully, but is denied entry to Syria. He has to make his own way back across no-man's land into Jordan and then find public transport to the airport.

The driver, on the other hand, is stuck at the border for 30 hours until they do their next cargo run. After that, he's whisked straight to Tartous with police escort. He gets himself and the car on the ferry. At the allotted time, it leaves port, goes round in circles a bit and then comes back again. The next stop for the ferry is Alexandria, and it's not all that stable at the moment so the boat's staying here until it thinks of something better to do.

It hasn't managed to do that after a few days so he bails and leaves the car on the boat while he flies to Venice, and from there to Finland. In all, it's a couple of weeks before his car reaches Italy so he can collect it.

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