Today we're heading north from Yanbu for some diving in the middle of nowhere. This stretch of coast is reportedly all good diving if you can get to the shore and march over the fringing reef. Lead by our boat driver from yesterday, we roll up at a stretch of coast accessible due to having a cement factory. There's a coastguard station nearby, so we rock up and do the needful.

And they turn us down. About a year ago, a couple of locals borrowed a mate's diving certification and went out with one tank and reg set between them. After they came back dead, the coastguard decided diving was too dangerous. They send us a mile or so down the coast, for safety's sake. The coast road is the traditional unsealed corrogated dirt track, fine for our DM's pickup, but not really suited to our conveyance, a Jaguar S-type R.

The trek out over the gnarly fringing reef with full gear on is hot and painful on the feet. It's a nice enough dive in the unspoilt water. Short on creatures, but it's pretty fun to know that we're probably the only people to have dived here, ever. We have a short surface interval before moving a little way down the coast for another go. Again, just a few larger fish in the clear water, but still a great opportunity to dive somewhere unique.

After we finish our dive, we turn north again to find a site for tomorrow's outing. We're interested in diving the Saudi side of the Gulf of Aqaba, and we have a tip for someone who can help us in Al Bad, which is right in the north. It's going to be a long drive, so we get cracking without too much delay.

By sunset, we've reached the town of Al Wajh, where we find bizarre bread-based local street food and spot a woman behind the wheel of a jeep.

The rest of the drive stretches on interminably under we get to Al Bad in the north of the country. I wake up as we're driving around the town in the middle of the night. It's becoming apparent that we've been given a bum steer - there's no sign of a hotel or a dive shop in the small town, and we reluctantly take the decision to journey on to the larger town of Haql.

Just outside of Haql, we come across a beach resort offering accommodation. It's after two in the morning when we finally get our heads down.

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