Day two in Toronto and there are two items on my agenda - the art gallery and the CN Tower. I stop at a hippy fairtrade cafe for a liquid breakfast before popping into the gallery at opening time.

I only intended to spend a couple of hours there, but the collection is excellent, stretching from the usual overstrained metaphors of contemporary art to an engrossing timeline of Canadian art, a great collection of Henry Moores and a striking exhibition of wonderfully dark sculpture from Toronto artist Shary Boyle. It's gone 3 by the time I leave dragging aching feet and containing some nice curry soup.

I don't take the underground route to the CN Tower, mostly because it doesn't go that far. It's city streets all the way.

The lift up to the top is another one of those horrifying glass fronted jobs. This time I'm prepared, by standing as far away as possible from the front. Or at the back as it's also known.

After some gawping from the observation deck, I head on up to the skypod, which is apparently the highest building observation deck in the world. But since the info here omits the Burj Khalifa completely, we can't be entirely sure that's still true.

Still, the view over the city is splendid, even more as the sun sets and lights come on all over the city. The downtown area is lit up spectacularly from our vantage point. I decide to get my money's worth by having my dinner up there as well. My Ultimate Burger comes piled up high enough that even the steak knife skewering it is hidden from view by a stack of onion rings. And despite the knife and cocktail sticks holding it together, it's still toppling and I'm forced to carefully dismantle it for eating.

I head to the nearest bit of underground on leaving the tower, which turns out not to be that near, and get cheerfully lost below the ground before finding my way back to the hotel.

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