Obviously, this is the luxury end of the holiday, so I'm going to save a few quid by booking a bike for the day to explore the island.

Just down the road from the hotel is Dwejra Bay, a spectacular limestone bay on the north west of Gozo. The work of the sea has created tunnels, arches and pillars of rock including an inland sea connected to the Med by a narrow tunnel through the limestone. It's a remarkable feature, which apparently offers great snorkelling and diving. Although not today, with the nor'westerly pounding waves into the cliffs.

It's a tough sweaty climb back up the zigzag road to the village. I head next to Xagħra, about four miles away and home of Gozo's largest neolithic template complex. It's a mostly down-hill journey to the island's capital and on until I start the slow climb to the Xagħra plateau.

The Ġgantija temples are a big temple-shaped pile of rocks. They've been left largely unmolested, with a bit of scaffolding holding the rock walls in place. There's a small amount of interpretation, but it's otherwise fairly lowkey.

The entry fee includes the other attraction in town, the windmill. Let's just say I don't expect many people come for the windmill and then discover the temples.

It's all downhill to the coastal town of Marselforn and I still don't fully appreciate what I've storing up for myself. The up starts after Marselforn, and both the wind and the hot sun are now against me. It's a long slog up to Victoria and a further long slog up from Victoria to the hotel, pausing briefly to invest in some cold liquid refreshment. I'm actually quite pleased to discover I've still got some fitness. I continue in my efforts to keep the cost of my stay on Gozo down by only having a 45 minute massage to sooth my aching muscles.

In the evening, I get teh hungarr and devour a Goat Burger of Doom. And it doesn't go straight through. Yay digestion.

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