I surface for a lazy European hotel breakfast at a suitably relaxed hour. Then, I spend a couple of hours getting agreeably lost in the streets of Valetta. Midday finds me entirely by coincedence at the Siege Bell, rung every day at 12. From my vantage point at the Lower Barracca Gardens, I can see the Saluting Battery's response as well as the shots around the Grand Harbour.

My level of holiday planning has consistantly fallen over the last year until I've reached the point where I don't have much idea what there is in Valletta beyond the free hotel map. My first pick - once I eventually decide I should actually go inside something - is the Grand Master's Palace, which is staffed by the most unfriendly ticket sellers in Malta.

It comes in two parts - the state apartments flanked by suits of armour, former Grand Masters and HM the former Queen, and then the armoury which has more armour and a lovely collection of lethal weaponry ranging from cannons to pointy sticks.

From there, I head to the Malta Experience which is, as the Malta Lonely Planet I purchased several minutes ago notes, a little overpriced. For all that, it's a handy display of how Malta ended up with its present day culture and architecture.

Heading back around to the south, I decide to indulge my curiosity over the signs pointing to the Liscardis War Rooms. It's hard to tell whether they're an actual attraction or a hole someone found in the bastian wall, because the staff appear to have gone AWOL. It contains a handful of rooms with display maps and the sort of board which WAAFs push toy planes around on in all the best war movies.

Coming back from there gets me outstandingly lost and I'm forced to rehydrate in a wee café overlooking the harbour again. After a wee sleep, I dine at an open air cafe on Republic Square. It's best described as "meh".

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