I wake up in my tent with a freezing draught on the back of my neck, making me feel like I've been whacked on the back of the head with a shovel.

After breakfast in the Genuine Bedouin Tent, we're transported in open-air 4wds back to civilisation. The coach takes us to Umm ar-Rasas, an archeological site founded by the Romans, and best known for its early churches with mosaic floors.

Next stop is Mount Nebo, traditionally the burial place of Moses. There are excellent views out across the Holy Lands when it's not as hazy as it is today.

Finally we're whisked off to a mosaic workshop with attached opportunity to buy. And after that, our bed for the night in Madaba, after a communal meal.

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