Crazy long day, starting at 7:30. The first stop is the Citadel of Amman. This features an Archeological Museum of Jordan housing some of the Dead Sea Scrolls. Leaving the Citadel, we take a whistle-stop tour of some of the districts of Amman, and by 11, we're on the way south - and downwards - to the Dead Sea.

Totally by coincedence, I leave a mostly empty water bottle in the bus, last opened in Amman. As we descend roughly 1000m from Amman to the Dead Sea, it's noticeably crushed by the change in pressure.

My first discovery is that it's impossible to swim in the Dead Sea. You float too high for your legs to get any purchase on the water. My second discovery is that my new underwater camera does appear to be watertight. Which is nice. And finally, what passes for sand here is burning hot.

After lunch, we saddle up for the drive back up into the mountains to the crusader castle of Shobak. It's out in the middle of nowhere, and pretty much deserted apart from us. There's a passageway down to a spring which we're not encouraged to carefully explore. My AF assist lamp proves to be an excellent torch.

And if that weren't enough, we're at Petra by 7, and at 9:30 we head down into the Siq for "Petra By Night". The route down goes on and on as it's swallowed by the towering rock walls. It's dimly lit by brown paper bags with candles inside.

We eventually pick out the treasury, lit from below by a carpet of paper-bag lights. The event itself is disappointing, offering a brace of Bedouin musicians before we start the trudge back up to the surface.

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