From Aleppo, we head to Hama, Syria's fifth largest city. The city is best known for the norias - waterwheels with buckets to lift the water for irrigation - which litter the waterways. The scale of the things is impressive enough, but nothing prepares you for the tortured groaning the things produce.

After Hama, we trek up to Krak des Chevaliers. An Egyptian company turns out to be using the castle to film some Cleopatra-based drama, so large chunks of it are dressed in ancient Egyptian cardboard.

Our final atop is at the Khalid Ibn Al-Walid Mosque in Homs. Then we head back to Damascus, where we take our leave from Sherif.

Our meal in the evening is at a restaurant whose menu promises "extinct meat".

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