We start the morning with a 20 mile trip out of town to the Church of Saint Simeon, the 5th century Christian ascetic who is became renowned for spending 37 years on a pillar. The Church is of course crawling with minga as usual, here to see the Actual Pillar, now about eight inches high and topped with a boulder. There's some fairly fun bits of old architecture here for engineering fans, and the remote hilltop site has wide open views over the Syrian countryside.

And then we head back into town, for lunch at a Genuine Aleppo Old Town restaurant. Paying for that leaves us short of cash, and we start a hunt through the town for cash machines. They're actually surprisingly hard to find. Or at least working ones are - they're all either broken, out of money or unable to talk to foreign banks. It takes a visit to a nice five star hotel to find a machine capable of feeding us money.

All this searching eats into the time allotted for our visit to the Citadel of Aleppo. We arrive about 45 minutes before chucking out and get a whistlestop tour of the citadel. Backwards.

After the citadel, we head into the souqs in order to find out what Aleppo's local specialities are. They're noticeably pushier here than Damascus and we're continually grabbed by hawkers and children alike to be invited to part with our money.

Adjacent to the souq is a soap factory, where we learn how Aleppo soap is made. It's a stinky process, which is appearently only carried out for a few weeks a year.

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