Time to pack all the (mostly diving) crap I've bought in Britain. I now own a dive computer to stop me dying underwater, and a camera with a waterproof case, to capture me not dying. And now all this has to be carted home via Syria and Jordan.

Lunchtime flight to Damascus, arriving in Syria late. Our Syrian fixer, Sherif meets us off the plane. He swiftly makes our visas happen and then collects us again after we get our bags.

Driving into the city, we try to find out how many others will join the tour. Sherif just looks blank - it turns out it will be just us, Sherif and a driver.

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